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BEAUTY:
By Carol Straley
Seven Beauty Rules to Break Right Now
Don't tweeze above your brows.
Any fuzz above your brows creates an unflattering shadow,
says New York City makeup artist Vivian Hidalgo of Minardi Salon. To pluck any strays above brows, Hidalgo suggests you look
directly into a large mirror (do not tilt your chin up or down -- this distorts your view). And starting at the inner corner,
tweeze one hair at a time. To prevent over tweezing, after you've plucked one row, step back from the mirror to check your
progress.
Clear up a zit overnight with a dab of toothpaste.
Models started sharing this so-called beauty secret, but the
truth is, while the toothpaste does dry the blemish somewhat, it doesn't go far enough, according to NYC dermatologist Diane
Berson, M.D. You'll get faster results with an over-the-counter acne treatment containing five percent benzoyl peroxide. Or
try Neutrogena's On-the-Spot Acne Patch.
You absolutely need a lip liner.
Not always. Neutral lip colors are more forgiving and less
likely to show imprecise application. Typically, only dark or bright shades (like red) really need a liner, but makeup pro
Kat James has an easier method that produces more natural-looking results: Smooth on lip balm, then apply lipstick to center
of lips only. Next, spread the color toward the edges of lips with a lip brush; the lip balm helps dilute the color to create
a softer stain, rather than the hard-edged look you'd get with lipstick and liner.
Put on concealer first, then foundation.
Makeup maven Laura Mercier likes to apply foundation first
to even out skin tone and provide a base for concealer to cling to. As a result, you use less of your concealer, which makes
for a more natural look.
Rinse your hair with cold water to make it shine.
The theory is that a final rinse with cold water after your
shampoo seals the cuticle, helping it to reflect more light. But according to hair and scalp expert Philip Kingsley, author
of Hair, An Owner's Handbook (Aurum Press, 1995), lowering the water temperature won't enhance shine. In fact, cold
water constricts the blood vessels of the scalp, temporarily cutting off the supply of nutrients needed for healthy hair.
What helps give hair a pretty sheen? Rinsing thoroughly so that no dulling shampoo residue remains on your hair.
Foundation should match the skin tone of your face.
The surprising answer, according to Kat James, is that your
foundation will look more natural if it matches your neck -- specifically, the area near the collarbone. The skin here has
a touch more yellow to its undertone, while the face tends to be a little more pink or red. And the last thing you want is
a foundation with pink -- it's aging and looks artificial.
Rub your wrists together after applying fragrance.
Some fragrance experts feel that rubbing crushes delicate
fragrance molecules, and, as a result, you don't get the true scent. But Annette Green, president of The Fragrance Foundation,
disagrees -- unless you have oily skin. "Natural oils mixing with the fragrance before it dries might interfere with the scent,"
says Green. Allow the fragrance to dry naturally; it takes about ten minutes. | |
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Break the High Heel Habit
by Jennifer Russo
Many women think that an outfit isn’t complete without a pair of high-heeled shoes, but that
fancy footwear may end up seriously cramping their style. Although heels aren’t usually considered particularly comfortable,
most women are not aware of the potential dangers. High heels are pumps with heels of more than two inches, according to the
American Podiatric Medical Association, who has determined them to be “biomechanically and orthopedically unsound.”
Aside from damaging a woman’s posture and increasing her risk of injury from falling, these shoes actually damage the
feet and may result in a lifetime of foot ailments.
Unlike the Barbie dolls they grew up playing with, women have flatter feet designed to bear their
weight by distributing it evenly across the entire surface. By placing feet in an uncomfortable position, high heels may lead
to a slew of health problems. Pain in the ball of the foot, metatarsalgia, is a common compliant for high heel enthusiasts.
But the damage done by heels goes beyond aching feet. High-heeled shoes change the shape of the feet and may eventually prevent
them from functioning properly. The unnatural position that the feet and legs are placed in when wearing high heels may shorten
the Achilles tendon, which connects the calf muscle to the heel bone. This causes the tendon to become inflamed and irritated.
Frequent high heel wearers may also develop a bump at the back of their heel, commonly called a “pump bump,” caused
by friction between the heel bone and the back of the shoe.
Unfortunately for high-heel lovers, the healthiest shoes for women are those with fairly wide heels
that are no more than a half or three-quarters of an inch in height, according to the American Podiatric Medical Association.
It is even more important for older women to wear low-heeled, comfortable shoes. High heels do not offer the protection and
stability needed to keep aging feet healthy.
For women unwilling to keep high heels off their feet, there are several steps that can minimize
the damage done by the shoes. Wearing flats for part of the day and avoiding high heels that are too tight, will lessen the
impact that high heels have on the feet. Pain and other foot problems are less likely to occur if high heels are worn as infrequently
as possible and are replaced by sneakers or flats as much as possible. There are also some shorter pumps that are designed
to combine the comfort of a sneaker with the look of high heels.
But high-heeled shoes aren’t the only corporate attire culprits. Their common companion, pantyhose,
may also cause health problems. Stockings prevent air from circulating around the foot and create the perfect damp, warm environment
for the growth of fungi such as athlete’s foot. The abrasiveness of nylon, which is compounded when the pantyhose is
wet or sweaty, can cause blisters. Some varieties of pantyhose, usually the cheaper ones, don’t have adequate elasticity,
which may cause the toes to be constricted and forced upwards leading to ingrown nails and hammertoes.
Preventing foot problems is as simple as making some basic foot
wardrobe changes. Women who abuse their feet with a lifetime of high heels and pantyhose may eventually be left without a
healthy foot to stand on.
Sources:
American Podiatric Medical Association
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Get Gym Gorgeous
Is it okay to wear makeup when I'm working out? We understand. You want to look your best while breaking a sweat next to muscle-bound males.
And according to Michele Gasiorowski, a Connecticut dermatologist, there's absolutely nothing wrong with making up your mug
before a workout. But we suggest you don't go overboard -- opt for a natural, girl-next-door look. Start with a sheer, ultralight
foundation on your freshly washed face. Follow with a bit of light mattifying powder. One to try: MAC Blot Powder, $14.50.
Add a touch of waterproof mascara to your eyes, a neutral-hued gloss on your lips, and voila -- an au naturel look sure to
wrangle any gym rat.
But be warned: If you
tend to rub your face a lot during a sweaty workout, you'll want to avoid shimmery makeup hues. Although they cast a golden
glow, they usually contain microscopic shards of glass that can break the skin and cause acne when you're wiping your face
with those little gym towels. Also, be sure to wash your face immediately after your workout to prevent pimple-causing perspiration
from marring your complexion.
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10 Tips for Buying a Bra
(Taken From The Ladies Home Journal)
1. Check your band size. According to Sara Tervo, spokesperson for Victoria's Secret, 7 out of 10
women wear the wrong size bra. Because weight loss, weight gain, a new workout routine, or having a child can alter your
size, it's important to be measured once a year. All specialty lingerie shops and lingerie sections in department stores
offer this service, which takes less than a minute. A consultant will measure around your body, right under your breasts,
with a tape measure to determine band size.
2. Check your cup size. The cup size is a bit more trial and error -- use your current size as a starting
place. The material in a perfect-fitting cup should lie flat and smooth against your breast.
3. Wear the right top to shop. A close-fitting T-shirt or blouse is your best bet, as it will clearly
show the bra's silhouette. If you're buying a bra to wear with a special outfit -- such as a strapless evening gown or a halter
top, bring the clothing with you to try on with the bra. You don't want to find out your new bra doesn't work with your gown
right before you're supposed to walk out the door!
4. Pay attention to material. Many women find that for everyday, cotton or microfiber is the most comfortable,
as these fabrics move with your body and allow your skin to breathe. Sexier fabrics, such as satin and lace, aren't as comfortable
but look beautiful and alluring for certain occasions.
5. Put it on the right way. The experts at lingerie manufacturer Barely There recommend the following
method: Put the straps over your shoulders. Bend forward, letting your breasts fall into the cups (adjust as necessary, so
your nipples are centered). Then hook the bra in back. Straighten up -- and you should have a perfect fit.
6. If you're full-figured, choose a full-coverage bra with an underwire. These styles are made with
more material to completely cover the breast (unlike a demi bra). This helps to give them shape and make them more comfortable.
Look for bras with wider straps, which also add comfort.
7. If you're small-busted, give yourself a boost with a padded or demi bra. A cleavage-enhancing bra
has padding in the cups to increase your bustline. Demi bras are half cup bras, adding lift and framing cleavage.
8. Add special-occasion staples to your bra wardrobe. Along with your comfortable seamless bras, invest
in a strapless bra for skimpy tops and evening wear, a sturdy sports bra for workout comfort and support, and a bra with movable
straps, for tank tops, racer-back tops, and halters.
9. Be aware of uneven breasts. Many women have unevenness of up to a cup size. In most cases, the difference
is barely noticeable. Fit your cup to the larger breast, then tighten the strap a bit on the smaller side to compensate.
10. Learn to troubleshoot. Your bra may be too big in the band or cup if the back rides up, the straps
constantly fall down, or the cups are wrinkled. Experiment with a smaller bra to remedy. Conversely, your bra may be too small
if your breasts bulge out of the top cup or the sides, and your band size may be too small if the band digs into your skin
or the bridge of the bra doesn't lie flat on your chest. Step up a size in cup or band to fix the particular problems.
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7 tips for finding the
perfect perfume
By Anna Johnson
Perfume is clouded with pretension, prohibitive prices and high-gloss ad campaigns, but everyone still
needs a scent. That invisible self portrait that leaves an indelible mark; a wispy, mysterious trail that becomes part of
your personal legend.
The scent you love could be as basic as a dab of patchouli oil or as complex as a bottle of Joy.
The pleasure dwells in the fact that it's yours. Cleopatra understood this concept -- practically doping
Mark Antony with incense, waxed perfume and essential oils at every one of her grand banquets.
Marilyn Monroe told
the world she slept in nothing but Chanel No. 5 and a million mid-century moms followed suit.
The perfumes most of our mothers wore were classics. Today the marketplace is much more aggressive,
diverse and mercurial. Confronted with so much choice, you want a scent that doesn't smell like it fell out of a magazine
(remember Giorgio?) and you want a perfume that is appealing but appropriate (don't try Fracas at the board meeting).
Above all, you don't need to be intimidated or swayed by the charm of packaging or the daunting displays
in department stores. The first and best tool to lead you out of the maze is your nose.
Every perfume is constructed of three notes; the top note, the heart note and the base and these are
arranged according to how the scent disperses. The top note is your first impression and lasts about a minute. The heart note
is the body of the perfume. And the base note is the way a scent lingers and rounds off at edges. To love all three you have
to live with a perfume on your skin and take into consideration the seasons (summer suits a lighter scent because of the way
we perspire), the oil level of your skin (darker complexions hold a scent whereas dry skins need more) and the magic of your
own chemistry.
Some perfumes are compelling but unwearable. I love the idea of smelling like a Zen Buddhist (NU by
Yves Saint Laurent) or a cookie factory in a Colombian rain forest (Jungle L'Elephant by Kenzo) but can't do it day to day.
To find a perfume worth committing to, Jan Moran, the author of "Fabulous Fragrances II" (Crescent
House Publishing), recommends sampling only four perfumes with each outing and getting scent samples out of a department store
and into the elements and your own lifestyle to see if it fits.
Her book and Michael Edward's “Fragrances of the World” (both available from www.fabulousfragrances.com) give the skinny on why we are attracted to specific scents and what groups they belong to.
Moran concentrates on the luscious history behind famous perfumes and Edwards provides a color- coded
guide linking 2,695 individual fragrances to 12 basic scent categories.
It seems ambitious to apply a system to something as personal as smell, but perfume is part poetry
and part science. If you are drawn to Arpege, First and Chanel no.5 you are responding to the soft florals created by substances
that are found naturally in rose and citrus oils and used synthetically to create a powdery, almost charred, soft floral.
Flip through Edwards book before you go the perfume counter and you are armed with the knowledge of 12 perfume categories
(spanning from citrus and oceanic notes to incense and oriental resins), and the thousands of Fragrance finds fragrances that
correspond with them. Like a personality test, the Perfume Wheel system tells you clearly which specific notes attract you
and why.
Women who want to smell like lemonade and bleached bed sheets (Cristalle, Aqua Di Parma Colonia, cK
ONE) are citrus lovers. Women who love heady, candied, almost plum-pudding scents (Boudoir, Bal a Versailles, Poeme) are classical
Floral Oriental types.
Find the perfect perfume: 7 tips
1. Be bold!
Hound the cosmetic counters for a sample spray a day until you find what you want.
2. Make a list of your favorite scents no matter how obscure (white chocolate fudge, sea spray, cut
grass, peaches, sugared almonds) and look for them in a perfume.
3. Go retro. Many of the greatest scents were designed between 1900 and 1945. Faithful to the original
recipes, perfumes like Joy (1930) and Mitsouko (1919) have tremendous intensity, luxurious layers and earthy naturalism.
4. Ignore packaging. A scent may come in ugly bottle or a granny box. Set the trend by wearing an unadvertised
perfume.
5. Search while you travel. The smaller apothecaries in Europe (Penghalion's in London, Santa Maria
Novella in Florence) have great little known scents. Markets in the Caribbean, Morocco and North Africa also sell rare oils
and perfumes.
6. When you find your true love, invest in parfum rather than cheaper dilutions, especially in winter
when the dry air evaporates the scent.
7. Buy small and build a seasonal fragrance wardrobe. Perfume lasts up to 18 months and longer when
tightly sealed. Put your winter scents in the fridge during summer and try lighter less serious "accessory" scents such as
Aqua Allegoria by Guerlain that comes in everything from grapefruit to violet.
If you can't smell your signature perfume anymore you may have olfactory fatigue. Refrigerate your
favorite and try something new.
Anna Johnson is the author of Three Black Skirts: All You Need to Survive and has written
for Elle, Vanity Fair, Vogue UK and other magazines. She's a correspondent for the Australian cable
TV program By Design. Born in Australia, she divides her time between New York City and Sydney
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Sporty Swimsuits
When fashion and function unite
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Whenever I see the words "Swimsuit Issue" on the front of a magazine, I get a cold, clammy feeling
in the pit of my stomach. All those glossy-skinned, nut-brown glamazons leaping around the sand in tiny patches of Lycra make
me want to buy a one-way ticket to Antarctica.
The prospect of finding another suit for summer brings back so many nightmare visions: Popping
a bikini strap as you dive into a river. Finding your high-cut maillot has spontaneously become a thong-backed suit after
a roll in the surf. Tugging at a bikini bottom to encase a runaway butt cheek only to find your belly popping out in reply.
Truly, there are so many ways to look bad near water: Hiding from the sun in a an oversized
T-shirt. Rolling a sarong around your hips like a bunched-up diaper. Modeling a sand-encrusted denim derrière after playing
volleyball in cut-offs. The burden! The bother! The indignity of getting half-naked for the joy of swimming. Most women feel
better stark naked than they do in a swimsuit—or at least they feel a whole lot sexier in bra and briefs.
Why is it that lingerie designers manage to do what swimwear designers never can? Perhaps it's
the materials they use. So many bathing suits look and feel slimy, shiny, fuzzy or scaly. Or maybe it's the colors: Tropical
fluorescent flowers and a persistent use of lime green and hot pink do not really flatter winter thighs. Worst of all offenses
are the cuts themselves. Designer bikinis assume a woman has no behind and an abundant, firm bosom. Mainstream suits go to
the other extreme: packing in underwire bras, restraining leg elastic and super chunky clasps to make a woman feel "secure".
Somewhere between a supermodel's crocheted g-string and Grandma's Miami trunks lies the perfect mermaid alternative: A suit
that will make you feel like Esther Williams if not Venus or Serena.
While your search continues—and it will for the course of your lifetime— why not
start choosing swimwear based on more than looks alone? Match a bikini or a maillot to the activities you do most. Find cover-ups
you actually adore and wear sandals, lipstick, floppy sun hats and even sunglasses that make you want to dive into summer.
When it comes to wearing less, every little bit helps...
Suit yourself
Plus-size goddesses who want
to strut the sand with confidence choose a suit that has all the structure of an evening gown (underwire bra, tailored bodice,
tasteful hip-line) in a classy, dramatic fabric. Dare to wear something dark. Try a suit in crimson or midnight blue and invest
in a wraparound beach mini until you feel firm enough to bare all. Choose your suit the way you choose lingerie, sporty doesn't
have to mean sexless.
If you swim serious laps but still want to look slick, try a tankini for a change or slip into
a Speedo suit with a sassier outlook. This season's racer-back one-piece suits have cool vintage surfer postcard prints with
tangerine trim.
Bikini lovers who do heavier water sports should try a boy-legged brief (a little like baby
bike shorts) and a top with a solid all-in-one halter. This season labels like Roxy are making '70s-style halter bikini tops
solid enough to wear with a sarong or jeans as a top in and of themselves (depending on your abs). Tankini suits are great
until you achieve rock-hard abs, giving you the confidence to toss a Frisbee without feeling all jiggly.
Girls who surf are wearing board shorts as bikini bottoms teamed with a sleeveless rash guard.
This is smart defense against bruising (ever whacked into a board or a rock?) and detracts from those sexist remarks in the
break. Barbie don't surf!
Pregnant mermaids can wear a bikini with a camisole over the top for ultimate freedom or a tankini
with a loose, dress-like bodice. Aussie swimmer maven Lisa Curran started her Mama label for active moms who want to make
like water babies. She recently recommended that moms-to-be look for shelf-top bras rather than underwire tops, giving them
more room to expand and grow.
Cool cover-ups
A thin cotton djaballa (a
traditional Indian shirt with white cotton embroidery and small shell buttons) in a pastel shade looks good worn just to the
top of the hip. If you wear it longer, split it at the leg and team it with thin, silk drawstring pants.
Choose a sarong in a delicate floral print and wear it low on the hip with a feminine camisole
or sheer, lacy vintage blouse.
Team dark with light—a midnight-blue sarong with an aqua top, cherry red with candy pink,
cocoa with lemon yellow. If you're pale, darker shades are actually more flattering.
Wear your mini to the beach. Lilly Pulitzer made her first little beach dresses from fabric
she bought at Woolworths in the early '60s. Invest in a Lilly or make your own Gidget-style shift out of a Hawaiian print
or some '60s curtains. The more bleached-out the colors, the better.
Try some ballerina style. Wear a backless one-piece with spaghetti straps with a full gathered
skirt of gypsy-ish cheesecloth or pleated cotton. Who says you can't wear gold hooped earrings to the beach? Olé.
Wear tiny T-shirts and tank tops instead of gigantic ones. Team them with loose, low-slung yoga
pants or a denim skirt (not cut-offs, please).
Don't forget your legs. Sneak some more height in a platform espadrille or some slip-on sandals
by Candie's. A little tacky sex appeal is part of the joy of summer.
Hand-dye a '50s lace slip and wear it with a chunky Indian belt around the hips. Wear an Edwardian
nightshirt (easier to find in antique stores than you'd think) with silver bracelets and a beat-up Panama hat. The beach should
be a style safari not just a sunburned schlep.
Steal some surfer style and save your décollatage. Rash guards are thin, long- sleeved neoprene
body shirts that screen the skin from UV rays and protect from the rash that surfboard wax and sand create. Swimming in mid-day
sun, cooler water or at dusk, this is the perfect cover-up and looks toughly chic.
Anna Johnson is the author of Handbags: The Power of the Purse
and Three Black Skirts: All You Need to Survive and has written for Elle,
Vanity Fair, Vogue UK and other magazines. She's a correspondent for the Australian cable TV program By
Design. Born in Australia, she divides her time between New York City and Sydney.
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Hot Workouts
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Mat-based Pilates, cardio kickboxing, power yoga ... These days there are more fitness options
than ever before, and while the choices can be confusing - even intimidating - it's always good to try something new: Mixing
up your workout can get you out of an exercise rut and help you see results quickly.
"Your body is very smart. If you
do the same exercise over and over again, it will quickly adapt and become more efficient at it." This improved efficiency
will reduce the exercise stress level. "It's best to challenge your body by changing your exercise routine somewhat frequently
(perhaps every 4-6 weeks) to help improve your overall fitness level." Also, varying or trying new exercises can prevent boredom,
particularly for people who have a hard time getting motivated to exercise."
So don't stick with the same old routine just because you don't know what to expect from a new
one. Here's the lowdown on the hottest workouts around:
Ashtanga Yoga
What is it? Ashtanga yoga, and its spinoff "power yoga," are Hatha yoga practices that involve moving
from one yoga pose to another at a quick pace, complemented by deep breathing exercises.
Benefits:
Boosts your heart rate and tones muscle.
Be Aware: If you haven't tried this before,
start with a beginner class. You might also consider trying a more gentle form of Hatha yoga, such as Integral or Kripalu,
first.
Get started: Visit www.yogajournal.com
Bikram Yoga
What is it?
Series of 26 yoga postures that are done in a room that's 105°F. "You can drop into a Bikram yoga class anywhere in the country,
and it should be exactly the same."
Benefits: The heated room helps one to warm up and
stretch even more.
Be Aware: It's not recommended for people with heart problems.
Also, bring water to class.
Get started: Visit www.yogajournal.com
Body Balls
What is it? Also known as stability balls, body balls are
big plastic beach balls used for strength and balance training.
Benefits: If you want serious toning, this
is a great way to get it. Body balls are one of the best abdominal workouts around, and they help improve flexibility.
Be
Aware: "If you're just starting out, have someone work with you on the ball first. Don't just start rolling around."
Get started: Classes held at many local gyms.
Elliptical
trainer
What is it? An exercise machine that's a cross between a stair climber
and treadmill.
Benefits: Burns calories, improves cardiovascular fitness and tones
your legs. Plus, many people find elliptical machines more comfortable than other machines.
Be
Aware: Calorie readouts on these machines tend to be overly generous - take them with a grain of salt.
Get started: If your gym doesn't have one, find a new gym!
Kickboxing
What is it? An all-over body workout that consists of kicks, punches, jumps, squats, crunches and
pushups.
Benefits: Great total-body workout in terms of cardio, strength and flexibility.
All muscles get worked, and it helps you strengthen your heart and lungs.
Be Aware:
Beginning exercisers beware: Kickboxing is a very high-intensity workout.
Get started:
Classes at your local gym, or visit www.kickboxing.com for more information.
Mat-based Pilates
What is
it? Floor exercises that focus on your core muscles (deep abdominals and the back). You'll hold yourself in unusual
strength-building postures while you concentrate on breathing deeply.
Benefits:
Builds abs, stretches your back and improves flexibility.
Be Aware: It's somewhat
tough for people with limited flexibility (but can help develop that capacity).
Get started:
Your local gym may have classes, or visit www.pilates-studio.com
Pilates Sessions
What is it?
A Pilates workout (see above) in which a machine is used instead of mat-based postures.
Benefits:
Pilates sessions are more of a full-body workout than the mat-based exercises. You build and tone your chest, deltoids and
lower back, along with your abs.
Be Aware: Pilates sessions are about form, control
and precision - and require a teacher. "If you have injuries or you're very overweight, you should be especially careful and
work with someone first. A teacher can create a workout tailored to your body and goals."
Get
started: Pilates sessions are usually done in a Pilates studio, but some gyms offer the classes for an extra charge.
Visit www.pilates-studio.com for more information.
Spinning
What is it?
An indoor cycling class, done to music, on a bike designed to emulate riding outdoors (read: up big hills). In this form of
interval training, you might be asked by the instructor to stand up, sit down and pedal faster or slower (rarely slower).
Benefits: Burns calories and tones your butt and thighs simultaneously. Spinning
also significantly boosts your heart rate, which improves cardiovascular fitness.
Be Aware:
It can be very hardcore. If you've never tried it, take a "novice spin" or "beginner spin" class, then work your way up to
more advanced classes.
Get started: Classes available at your local gym.
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